<
https://theconversation.com/why-secondhand-markets-and-apps-are-not-a-solution-to-clothing-waste-222321>
"In theory, apps for selling secondhand clothes such as Vinted, Depop, ThredUp
and Schpock offer an opportunity to be both thrifty and fashionable. Good news
for shoppers worried about rising costs and the sustainability of buying new
clothes.
Secondhand markets like these, and their in-person iterations like charity
shops, have long been lauded as a more savvy, ethical, and environmentally
sustainable shopping choice. But our research has found these markets mask the
issues caused by our consumption. They offer only individualised, piecemeal
solutions to the vast global problem of waste.
Pundits in the business world enthuse about the “circular economy” created by
apps which market “pre-loved” garments as a means of extending the lives of
clothing and other consumer goods. As with other online resale markets such as
Facebook Marketplace and eBay, these apps are firmly situated within the
commonsense understanding of the circular economy, as they enable unwanted
goods to move on within the system, rather than being consigned to the bin.
A truly circular economy ought to not only recycle goods, but also prevent the
future production of waste. And by that measure, clothing markets are failing
spectacularly. According to a report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, by 2030
we will produce more than 100 million tonnes of new clothing each year,
contributing to climate change more than international flights and shipping
combined. Secondhand reselling is failing to make a dent in the unfathomable
scale of production in the international textiles market.
Our critique of secondhand spaces suggests a few reasons for this. First,
buying and selling secondhand gets talked about and even advertised as what
good, clever, thrifty people do, especially under rising costs of living. Using
a reselling app, or donating to and buying from charity shops, creates a “warm
glow” that offsets the guilt of buying something new.
But most significantly, secondhand markets are built to increase consumption,
not cut it back. Charity shops, for example, under increasing pressure to be
profitable, have to take on more professionalised and “for-profit”
merchandising habits. Even companies that deal in luxury items such as watches
and jewellery have embraced the popularity of secondhand shopping as it
complements their market and means future consumers can access their goods."
Cheers,
*** Xanni ***
--
mailto:xanni@xanadu.net Andrew Pam
http://xanadu.com.au/ Chief Scientist, Xanadu
https://glasswings.com.au/ Partner, Glass Wings
https://sericyb.com.au/ Manager, Serious Cybernetics
