Pizza Hut feasts and improvised altars: lunar new year in Australia’s small town Chinese restaurants

Tue, 17 Feb 2026 23:02:29 +1100

Andrew Pam <xanni [at] glasswings.com.au>

Andrew Pam
<https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2026/feb/16/pizza-hut-feasts-and-improvised-altars-lunar-new-year-in-australias-small-town-chinese-restaurants>

"Two things are certain at Chinese restaurants in Australian country towns:
you’ll find lemon chicken on the menu and the restaurant is open almost every
day.

In the 1960s and 70s, Ruby Lee’s parents ran the Pagoda Cafe in Burleigh Heads,
a surf town in Queensland. They worked 14-hour days and opened the restaurant
year-round, even Christmas. When they did eventually close for one day a year,
it was for lunar new year.

“It was the only day that I can recall ever eating out with the family while
growing up,” Lee says. There weren’t any “good” Chinese restaurants in the area
at the time, so the family celebrated at a local Pizza Hut.

When you’re one of the few Asian families in a small Australian town, cultural
celebrations and festivities often only exist because of your resourcefulness."

Share and enjoy,
               *** Xanni ***
--
mailto:xanni@xanadu.net               Andrew Pam
http://xanadu.com.au/                 Chief Scientist, Xanadu
https://glasswings.com.au/            Partner, Glass Wings
https://sericyb.com.au/               Manager, Serious Cybernetics

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